AS Boutique Hotel

Worth getting out of bed for

Close to all the action, but set back from the main streets, there’s an Edenic feel to AS Boutique Hotel, with a gauntlet of greenery at its entrance, a blooming inner courtyard and small peaceful park set behind. The verdure rambles on in Tivoli Park close by, which takes up a swathe of the city with its romantic landscaping (largely put in place by architect Jože Plečnik, who had a huge impact in modelling Ljubljana). It’s also home to the International Centre of Graphic Arts, housed in a 17th-century mansion, National Museum of Contemporary History and the Zoo. 

After staring at Ljubljana Castle from your room or the roof terrace, you’ll want a closer look; it’s a 20-minute walk away, but detour a little to cross the famous Dragon Bridge, as you’ll learn more creature lore on a time-travelling tour. Dinners and exhibitions are held here too, but if it’s artistic anarchy you want, it’s afoot at Metelkova, an autonomous, graffiti-splattered cultural ‘squat’, where activism and free self-expression foment into a fascinating series of events. Converted power plant Stara Elektrana also has dynamic happenings. Or take a more traditional tour through the pretty Town Square and marvel at Saint Nicholas's Cathedral’s Baroque splendour.

Local restaurants

Lucky you, one of Ljubljana’s most lauded restaurants is right downstairs — it’s quite the first impression, but we’ve got your equally satisfying second, third and more right here. JB Restaurant (chef Janez Bratovž’s initials) favours clean, elemental flavours, which translates to lamb with traditional lovage and cheese dumplings or fish with saffron and ginger. Strelec is set in the castle’s 15th-century Archers' Tower; its look might be Middle Ages, but its tasting menu is decidedly modern. Along the river, Breg has prettified Mediterranean plates and riverine views.

Local cafés

Happiness is standing outside Burek Olimpija holding a densely layered filo pie that thinks it's a pizza — this is the original pizza (or ‘pica’) burek spot, but those filled with mincemeat, apple or cheese are all begging to be messily scoffed too. For dessert, join the queue outside Vigò ice-cream parlour for a few scoops.

Local bars

Daktari is the living room you wish you had, with muddles of mismatched chairs, books tucked into crannies and a piano in the corner; thus making it the cosiest spot for sinking a few of the local craft brews on tap. Or if the pop of a cork has a Pavlovian effect on you, natural-wine bar Movia is set up like a mini cellar with romantically dimmed lighting.