‘Everything about Florence seems to be coloured with a mild violet, like diluted wine,’ wrote Henry James of his stay there in 1869. These days, the Tuscan capital is decidedly more effervescent and better compared to one of its most famous exports, the Negroni: it stirs the senses, looks divine and always leaves you wanting more.
FRIDAY: EVENING
Oltrarno Splendid hotel
It’s check-in time, and Florence is prepped for every penchant. If you want to feel in the thick of things, make a reservation at Casa G Firenze, a blink-and-you’ll-miss it haven in the heart of Santa Maria Novella, or the Etra Collection, a design-aficionado’s Nirvana just down the road from the Duomo.
If you’re looking for a serenity in the city, reserve your room at Villa Cora, an opulent ode to Renaissance architecture with an outdoor swimming pool overlooking the Boboli Gardens (actual heaven), or Ottantotto Firenze, a walled-garden oasis beside Giardino Torrigiani.
If you’re headed to Florence to indulge in luxury Italian retail therapy, reserve a room at Stella d’Italia, set in the heart of the high-fashion shopping district (with a beautiful terrace for breakfast and sundowners). Or if you feel like sleeping under 18th-century frescoes in an authentic Florentine palazzo, then Oltrarno Splendid on the south bank will make you feel like an honorary Medici.
With bags dropped, prioritise aperitivo hour. In their own way, all Italian cities excel at this time of day and Florence on a Friday night is no exception. Head to Amblé (a very good little secret behind the Ponte Vecchio) for a spritz and homemade crostini nibbles. Then make your way over to Enoteca Bellini on Via della Spada, where plates of freshly carved prosciutto are passed around by locals and groups of cool Florentines sip on natural wine.
But why stop there? Walk across to Pitti Gola e Cantina and if you’re lucky take up one of its six tables where you can enjoy some of the best wines in the city and feast on perfectly complementary seasonal dishes (if not, drop a pin for Saturday night or next time as this can’t be missed).
SATURDAY: MORNING
The good thing about Florence is that it’s easy to get around by foot. That advised, a hearty breakfast is essential to start the day right and what better way to enjoy breakfast in a historic city than at a bakery with history?
The famous Caffè Scudieri in Piazza San Giovanni has been baking up brioche since 1939 and continues to put on the most spectacular spread every morning. Around the corner, on Piazza della Repubblica, Paszkowski Caffè Concerto has been a city landmark since the 1800s and is a top spot for people watching. And Pasticceria Nencioni, family run since the 1950s, is legendary for its breakfast biscotti.
SATURDAY: AFTERNOON
Ponte Vecchio
Like most of Italy, lunch in Florence is served from noon or 12.30pm to 2.30pm (starting 4pm at the very latest) so make a booking to get a good seat. There’s no shortage of famous eateries in town, but if you must narrow it down for lunch, head to one that has a bustling home-kitchen-cum-cantine feel.
Coco Lezzone has checked tablecloths and the best cuts of steak in the city; Trattoria Mario has set menus for each day of the week (on Saturday, expect ossobuco di vitello, or veal shank); and Trattoria Sostanza’s tortellini en brodo and no-frills fabulousness alone is worth a visit to Florence.
After lunch, check out Florence’s contemporary art scene in the Murate Art District (MAD). Owned by the city council, it was a monastery in the 15th century before being converted into a prison in 1883, until 1985, when it became a creative hub. Its line-up of exhibitions, performances and recitals is now renowned on the international art scene and provides a refreshing point of difference from the predictable tourist-trap of David (sorry, Michelangelo). You’ll have time for that later, anyway.
SATURDAY: EVENING
Watching the sunset from the banks of the Arno is a rite of passage, and Portrait Firenze offers one of the best spots. Situated just beside the Ponte Vecchio, it promises a picture-postcard view that – old as it is – never seems to get old.
On the other side of the river, you’ll find the brilliant Il Santo Bevitore restaurant, where the clock will stop as you feast on its fish of the day. If you’re looking for a more informal Saturday night out, sister eatery Il Santo Gastronomia, a deli-counter-style bar next door, serves small antipasti plates and big glasses.
Strolling through the city streets at night will make you instantly feel like a main character, as buskers and church bells supply the soundtrack. For more live music, NOF Club Firenze on Borgo San Frediano has an eclectic mix of genres most evenings – and free entry. Likewise, Caffé Letterario is a book-store-meets-restaurant-meets-café in Piazza delle Murate (on the MAD site), hosting poetry readings and live music on its outdoor stage most nights.
SUNDAY: MORNING
Rise bright and early to see the magical view of sunrise bouncing off the Arno (remember, heading back to the hotel for an afternoon siesta is heavily encouraged, so you’ll make up your zzzs). From this time on, there are three solid Sunday-morning options.
If you’re in town on the first Sunday of the month, then make the most of free entrance to the Uffizzi galleries (including the Uffizi, the Corridoio Vasariano, the Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens) and clock up your cultural quota.
If you’re in town on the second Sunday of the month, cross the Santa Trinita bridge into the Santo Spirito neighbourhood for the best flea market to pick up unique souvenirs.
And if you’re there on any other Sunday of the month, hike to the high point of the city, 16th-century fortress Forte di Belvedere. It’s host to Palazzina di Belvedere (famously used as the Medici family’s safe) and offers the best views of the city’s terracotta rooftops and Renaissance spires.
Regardless of where you roam, refreshments will be in order, and Santo Spirito’s main piazza is full of bars and restaurants for whetting your whistle or having an open-air lunch after getting your steps up.
SUNDAY: AFTERNOON
Before – or after – that siesta, make your way to Mercato Centrale to pick up some edible delights to bring home with you. This popular multi-artisan concept has been rolled out in major cities all over Italy; it’s a brilliant place to pick up local produce and presents on a Sunday (and treat yourself to the many tasters on offer).
With Sundays the official day of reading, head to the newly opened Giunti Odeon Library, a former cinema hall that was transformed into a bookshop, cinema and library at the end of 2023 – it’s unmissable for bookworms and architecture aficionados alike.
A gelato stop is an afternoon tradition any day of the week but especially so on a Sunday. Gelateria Vivoli – the city’s oldest ice-cream shop – scoops the award for the best affogato al caffè in the city. If gelato isn’t your thing (can we still be friends?) then Caffé Gilli (Florence’s oldest of its kind) will happily serve you a Sunday tiramisu (meant literally in Italy as a ‘pick me up’) of your choice.
SUNDAY: EVENING
If you’ve energy left in your legs and room left in your stomach, Stanley Tucci’s favourite and Sunday-evening hotspot Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco serves up myriad varieties of wild boar (as its name suggests). Alla Vecchia Bettola is also lively on a Sunday – the namesake house pasta (cooked in tomato and vodka sauce) is legendary and the perfect way to wrap up a weekend in Florence, heart and stomach full.
NEED TO KNOW
Most visitors to Italy land at Amerigo Vespucci Airport, but the romance of stepping off a Frecciarossa train in Santa Maria Novella station is hard to beat. With its imposing modernist architecture, signage in original Italian typography and tannoy-soundtracked bustle, it has a habit of making you feel like it’s your first time every time. It’s also well advised to arrive in Florence on foot. The city’s a doddle to walk around, so driving is best left to the locals (although it’s relatively easy to hop in a cab to your hotel if you have heavy luggage – cobbles will dislocate your shoulder if pulling a suitcase).
When to go The city feels cosy and romantic in November; or to make the most of Tuscany’s spring harvest of artichokes and asparagus, make a date for May. Be warned that high summer brings heat and heavy crowds – keep in mind that men’s fashion showcase Pitti Immagine Uomo happens mid-June and prices head north, just like the locals.
What to buy Don’t leave without visiting Santa Maria Novella Farmacia. Housed in the original premises, the heritage brand has been making exquisite toiletries – and now cosmetics too – since 1221 in Florence. Go wild with a full bathroom set in gorgeous packaging; or for a small memento, choose one of its perfectly wrapped bars of soap.
Handy hint If you’re stopping for a quick caffè espresso, make like the Italians and knock it back at the bar to save the pricey ‘coperto’ charge. On the contrary, while the Italians famously don’t drink cappuccino after noon, they still serve it, so if you want one, you do you.
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