You’ve done Paris. You’ve conquered Rome. The classic honeymoon route is a well-trodden path. But what if your happily ever after lies off the beaten track? Second cities may not have the cachet of their universally popular counterparts, but they more than make up for it with civic spirit, creative edge and distinct lack of pretence — not to mention a fraction of the crowds. Say ‘I do’ to the road less travelled with our honeymooner’s guide to second city breaks…
INSTEAD OF PARIS, HEAD TO… LYON
Often described, even by the Parisians, as being like Paris but without the crowds, France’s second city Lyon is a chic metropolis with a style and pace all of its own. Built on the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône rivers, this Unesco-designated city is full of swoonsome vistas, charming Renaissance streets and beguiling Roman ruins.
Many of the latter you’ll find around Fourvière Hill — a peaceful hilltop area, and former Roman settlement — just outside the old town that’s home to an ancient amphitheatre, formidable Gothic church, a cluster of bars and restaurants and Villa Maïa hotel, a bon goût bolthole where a quartet of French tastemakers have left their mark. It’s like a tick-list of French talent: designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte, with interiors by Jacques Grange, a pruned Louis Benech garden, and a trio of restaurants helmed by celebrity chef Christian Têtedoie. Tres chic.
INSTEAD OF OSLO, HEAD TO… BERGEN
The colourful Norwegian city of Bergen was once the country’s capital. That is, until King Håkon V moved to Oslo and took the title with him. Now, it’s better known as the ‘capital of the fjords’ thanks to its high concentration of glassy inlets, which snake their way between forest-flanked hills.
But even among its natural assets, Bergen’s urban charms shine; it’s home to the world’s largest cultural collection in Scandinavia, its musical heritage is mighty — with melody-makers from Grieg to Ole Bull to Kings of Convenience hailing from the city — and its gastronomic clout is strong, especially at Bergen Børs Hotel, a palatial stay in the city’s former stock exchange which earnt Bergen its first Michelin star.
Inside, Swedish design studio Claesson Koivisto Rune riff on the building’s bullish past life with elegant touches of leather, walnut wood, marble and tongue-in-cheek tailoring tropes (think pinstripe wallpaper, houndstooth accent and grid-patterned carpets) so you can compound your commitment in serious style.
INSTEAD OF TOKYO, HEAD TO… KYOTO
If Tokyo is a city that embraces the future, Kyoto is all about preserving the past. With hundreds of temples dotted around its mountain-flanked surrounds, and geiko shuffling through its tranquil, cherry-blossom-lined streets, it seems worlds away from the capital’s sci-fi street lights, despite being just a two-hour bullet train west. Here, couples can enjoy a slower pace of Japanese life – take part in elaborate ceremonies at traditional tea houses, soak in natural hot springs, stroll through lofty bamboo forests, or master meditative local crafts like calligraphy or Ikebana flower arranging.
Though if you do start yearning for more contemporary pursuits, you’ll find a slew of hip kaiseki restaurants and a burgeoning craft-beer scene. Create lasting memories at the Shinmonzen, a revamped ryokan with a swoon-worthy art collection, or start married life with a slice of kanso-inspired serenity at Shinsho-an, a minimalist stay where you can hole up without distraction.
INSTEAD OF ATHENS, HEAD TO… THESSALONIKI
Thessaloniki has always been a second city. First as the supporting actor to Constantinople’s Byzantine protagonist, and now as Greece’s lesser-known mainland metropolis. Cradling the crook of an Aegean bay, this beguiling port city has the best of both worlds; time-worn churches and synagogues rub shoulders with buzzy restaurants and brunch spots, and the city’s two universities — one named after Aristotle — attract a steady stream of youthful energy.
Lively lovebirds can position themselves in the heart of the action at the Modernist Thessaloniki, a smack-bang-in-the-middle stay with striking design, which — just like any disciple of the modernist movement, or port city, for that matter — isn’t afraid to break with tradition. Decadent darlings, meanwhile, ought to check in at On Residence, a glamorous, era-straddling stay where you can celebrate your vows through a flock of flirty cocktails, dinners that go on way past bedtime and by stealing kisses along the seafront.
INSTEAD OF MADRID, HEAD TO… BILBÃO
The belle of the Basque Country, Bilbão has been cultivating cultural clout ever since the Nineties when the futuristic, Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim arrived on its waterfront. Swap the white dress for paint-splattered dungarees as you explore the city’s kaleidoscopic graffiti scene, or make a toast among its cobbled mediaeval streets, where the towers of the city’s Gothic cathedral spike the skyline.
You’ll find a pintxos bar packed with locals on every corner, too, not least in the city’s historic ‘hood and gastro hub Getxo. It’s here where fabled mansion-turned-boutique stay Palacio Arriluce presides over the Bay of Biscay. Spend the dawn of your marriage in a flurry of pool splashes, slinging back French 45s in a chapel, or taking couples treatments in the hotel spa.
INSTEAD OF RABAT, HEAD TO… FEZ
Mosques, medina, mountains and marital bliss: you’ll find it all in Fez, Morocco’s second city where street stalls tempt with aromatic tagines, silks and carpets pop with vivid berry dyes and the clip-clop of donkey hooves fill the narrow, limestone streets. Here you’ll get to experience three cities for the price of one. There’s the ancient, walled city Fes el Bali; the Jewish quarter, Fes Jdid; and the newest, French-created section, Ville Nouvelle.
Soak it up, souk-side at Palais Amani, a regal riad with roots dating back to the 1600s where you and your beloved can take in the city sights from atop the rooftop terrace. Or swap the sensory overload of the medina for a shushed stay at Hôtel Sahrai, where magic comes in the form of skyscraping palm trees, a city-facing infinity pool flanked with sand-hued day-beds and a quartet of restaurants and bars so that you never have to leave.
INSTEAD OF BRUSSELS, HEAD TO… ANTWERP
Once an important port for cloth trade, it’s no wonder that Antwerp is one of the most fashion-forward cities in the world. Rubens’ native city is home to one of the oldest and most well-respected fashion colleges in the world, as well as a contemporary fashion museum which hosts a rotation of immersive exhibitions. As such, the shopping here is stellar, with the best of Belgian and Dutch designers peddling their wares on and around the Nationalestraat.
Sharp-dressed sweethearts can serve a look or two in the communal library and lounge of Hotel Flora, where the fashion crowd come to imbibe hard-to-find rums and discuss all things Renaissance and runways. And at Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp, a veritable cathedral to wellness comprising a 13th-century monastery, 15th-century chapel and ‘beautique’ walled garden, it’s what’s on the inside that counts.
INSTEAD OF CANBERRA, HEAD TO… PERTH
Perth may be among the world’s most isolated cities – surrounded by miles of mining territory – but it’s far from out of touch. Galleries, theatres and bars are scattered throughout, the food scene is superlative and beaches are beautiful. Built on WA’s thriving diamond trade, the coastal city was always destined to become a glittering urban hub.
Spend til-death-do-us-part days catching waves and post-nuptial nights in style-conscious bars and clubs. Gourmand newlyweds should make a beeline for Alex Hotel, a sleek, black-and-white habitué in Perth’s Cultural Centre, owned by the foodies behind some of Perth’s most well-regarded eateries and bars (Bread in Common, Gordon Street Garage, the Hippocampus Distillery).
Over in the city’s Central Business District, Aussie architect Kerry Hill has transformed civic offices into handsome boutique hotel Como the Treasury, giving original features a starring role: cavernous spaces, lofty ceilings, glossy wood panelling and plenty of 19th-century flourishes.
And for when you’ve exhausted the city, discover our coastal collection of beachside boutique hotels