New York’s trailblazing beatniks have long been drawn to the culture-rife city, storied for its creative spirit and constant happenings. Quietly resting above it all, Upstate New York is the more serene sidekick to the megalopolis.
But now it’s coming out on top, as abandoned buildings and run-down lodges are made into sought-after boutique hotels; creaky docks become summer hotspots; and traditional towns turn muse for artists. The best part? You’re only a few hours away from the city, so pack your weekend bags and take to the open road…
Troutbeck, Amenia
FOR CREATIVES
Leonard Cohen, Patti Smith, Jimi Hendrix… you name the artist, and we’ll bet they’ve lived in NYC at some point. But before Greenwich Village had Bob Dylan, Amenia had Mark Twain. Perhaps not quite as rock ‘n‘ roll (well, folk-y), but the traditional town’s country manor Troutbeck shows off its literary legacy and reminds us that there’s inspiration outside the city, too. Sitting just off Route 22, this family-owned retreat is set to excite both creatives and chroniclers with a history that dates back to the 18th century.
It was the Benton family who first put this small estate on the map back in 1765, courtesy of a coveted friendship circle (this is where Twain comes in) who would often stay for elaborate dinners and enlightening weekends. As the next century rolled around, the residence passed from family to family, but its guests stayed equally inspiring, with visionaries such as Sinclair Lewis and Ernest Hemingway being hosted.
Troutbeck didn’t reach its current form until the Champalimaud family encountered it – in a somewhat dilapidated state – in 2016. Owner Alexander Champalimaud enlisted his mother, an interior design mastermind, to help renovate the space, turning it into a quieter, cosier spot for budding creatives. They decided to nod to the building’s history in subtle ways, so it doesn’t feel overly boastful, however you will find, say, a framed thank-you note from Martin Luther King Jr and other such treasures.
Otherwise, mid-century touches have been carefully restored, each room filled with hand-picked vintage furnishings and modern touches (the Frette-dressed king-size beds and deep soaking bath tubs are a few fan favourites) and cosy communal spaces are inventively configured to encourage conversation between guests. Grab a book from the library, roam the flower-filled gardens, explore the Hudson Valley’s picturesque landscapes or lounge poolside – however you choose to spend your time, just don’t be shocked if (or indeed when) you’re hit with your next creative epiphany.
Hotel Lilien, Tannersville
FOR STORYTELLERS
The flow of artists seeking community didn’t stop in Amenia, and as the divisive 1950s began, many of its creatives sought it in leafy and laidback Woodstock – a place long-famed for its soulful spirit. And that mindset has since radiated half an hour north into Tannersville, embodied by the folks over at Hotel Lilien. This revamped Victorian retreat, three hours from Brooklyn along Route 87, rests at the base of the Hunter Mountain, a location loved by skiers and hikers alike.
Within, rooms with individual layouts and styles are further personalised with re-upholstered furniture which the owner collected (and hauled back) himself after roaming the region’s antique fairs. The alpine ‘gear bar’ is kitted out with all you need to explore the snow (shoes, skis, sleds) and a come-together living room is enlivened by families playing board games and friends who were otherwise strangers sharing stories fireside, as the jukebox comes to life.
A restaurant loved by locals enhances the convivial setting with amped-up comfort fare (fried-chicken sandwiches, whipped-butter boards and toasties paired with bisque for dippin’). Just when things can’t feel any more like a Hallmark movie, milk and freshly baked cookies are available in the lounge before you head up for bed. Sweet, sweet dreams await.
Eastwind Oliverea Valley, Catskill Mountains
FOR NATURALISTS
Occupying a desirable spot in the storied Catskills region, Eastwind Oliverea Valley has a collection of Scandi-style A-frame cabins settled into the contours of Big Indian Mountain. The design-savvy duo behind the group of Eastwind hotels (with stays at Windham and Lake Placid too), Björn Boyer and Julija Stoliarova, decided to do things a little differently with their Ulster County outpost. Where they often convert existing spaces, here they decided to build from the ground-up to ensure that each king-size bed and fur-lined window seat gazed over the rolling landscape at just the right angle.
Huts have a strong hygge feel, with personalised touches (including books on native flowers and binoculars for spotting bobcats and the like). Those who prefer getting up close and personal with local fauna can follow the adjoining McKenley Hollow Trail, ride free-to-borrow bikes, cast bait in the bordering creeks on fishing missions and spend evenings roasting s’mores around fire pits. If you visit once Upstate’s snow has settled, join crowds of local skiers on perfectly powdered pistes.
Immersion in nature doesn’t stop there, for the hotel’s head chef Daniel Cipirani (of Brooklyn-based Gemelli fame) conceives dishes at house eatery Dandelion based on what plants are blooming in the grounds that month – so you’ll likely spot bunches of nettles and fiddleheads on the chef’s table while Björn often gets busy shaking up cocktails behind the bar and delivering breakfast baskets right to your cabin door.
And if you’re yet to finish your Catskills exploring, the Chatwal Lodge’s 18,000 acres will make for a soul-soothing next stop.
The Inns of Aurora, Finger Lakes
FOR SERENITY SEEKERS
The Finger Lakes (named quite literally for roughly resembling digits) are an ancient part of Upstate, formed after the last ice age; but these days are entwined with charming towns and rolling vineyards. The Inns of Aurora hotel was an early rest-stop for those wanting to explore, founded in 2003 after owner Pleasant Rowland (who also founded the toy juggernaut that is American Girl dolls, no less ) saw potential in the inn’s 19th-century bones and 350 acres of lake-admiring land.
First owned by the co-founder of The New York Times, these five lakeside inns have been updated with a modern yet cosy and family-welcoming feel – which friendly innkeepers add to, doling out top local tips as required and delivering freshly baked muffins to your door. Individual, perfectly offbeat interiors and personable service are some of Aurora’s big draws; but the sprawling spa, worthy of its own estate, is also what’s bringing New Yorkers back.
To reach it, follow its dedicated path – dubbed a mindfulness trail – passing lavender fields and admiring views of the northern tip of Cayuga Lake. Inside it feels like an upmarket farmhouse, complete with a boot room, indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, and a salon. Hallways are lined with artwork from the owner’s personal collection (a Giacometti piece stands particularly proud here) and there are dedicated ‘quiet rooms’, furnished with soft day-beds and swinging wicker chairs for some solitary contemplation. Need your knots kneaded? Book into one of 10 treatment rooms where therapists get to work with botanical-infused oils from Ithaca-based Rasa Spa followed by a bespoke water treatment.
The adventurous can join up with resident outdoorsmen, who run nature-immersing activities: archery classes, fishing trips and guided hikes. Wrap up action-packed days with evenings spent drinking cocktails by the fireplace, raising a glass to the slow life. Cheers to you, Upstate.
For more out-of-city sojourns, browse our collection of boutique hotels in Upstate New York…