Hikers and mountain bikers have been wise to the wiles of European mountains in summer for decades – but you don’t need to be an outdoorsy thrillseeker to enjoy these wild corners of the Continent. Even those of us who don’t know our cols from our couloirs can appreciate the majestic scenery, reconnect with nature, and enjoy the cooler climes at altitude that are here to take the edge off summer’s heat.
The geography of mountain hotels also lends itself to an organic pride in place: these often-remote outposts naturally prioritise a local supply chain, incorporating valley-sourced ingredients to lace a little Alpine spirit into everything from spa treatments to cocktails to cuisine. Here’s our pick of the best hotels on high to slope off to for a cooler summer getaway.
Son Bunyola, Mallorca
For Balearic-style highs
Before you pack your all-white wardrobe and order another Apérol – we’re not in Magaluf anymore…The Serra de Tramuntana offers a different take on ‘wild’. Opposites attract at Son Bunyola, where the grandeur of this restored 16th-century finca estate is in striking contrast to its untamed setting. Beyond its boutique clutch of rooms and showstopping pool terrace, the hotel offers a wealth of ways to enjoy the scenery, from photography workshops to yoga to walking tours. Breeze-cooled evenings spent dining alfresco at Sa Terrassa are an idyllic footnote to days idled in nature.
La Signoria, Corsica
For a beach in reach
Famed ‘grande randonée’ the GR20 has put Corsica on many a mountaineer’s hit list – but for those of us without walking poles, ‘a bit of beach time too’ seems a more manageable goal for a trip to the mountains. And La Signoria, in a verdant swathe of the Bonifato Valley, meets the brief. With an on-site spa, bar and gastronomic restaurant, this manor-house stay makes staying put simple. But what a waste of your near-the-coast setting that would be. A free shuttle can take you the five-minute drive to Calvi, and its turquoise-sea-lapped beaches, overlooked by a cliff-topping mediaeval citadel: all of which means you can enjoy both surf and turf on your Corsican sojourn.
TheVagar Country House, Portugal
For slowing down
Sorry, Portugal, but when we think of you, it’s mostly for your walkable cities and surf-lapped beaches. Your mountains, such as the Serra da Estrela (your oldest national park) don’t feature much on the Continental radar – which is what makes TheVagar Country House, just outside the historic schist village of Belmonte, such a find. It’s the hotel equivalent of Rescue Remedy, eradicating the need for packed agendas with a laidback dining set-up, restorative spa, sprawling wooded acres and lo-fi suites. Even its name – TheVagar, which is a play on devagar, meaning ‘slow’ in Portuguese – underpins its low-tempo seduction.
Grand Forest Metsovo, Greece
For peak Greece
A world away from Santorini – and cooler in a more literal sense – are the rugged Pindus mountains of Greece’s wild interior, drawing skiers to their resorts in winter, and hikers from spring through autumn. Explore its remote serenity from Grand Forest Metsovo, where exposed stone walls, textural furnishings and a smattering of plaid suggest you’ve been beamed up to an Alpine stay closer to France or Switzerland, say. But even a glimpse of the wraparound Grecian splendour from the hotel infinity pool is all the sanity-check you’ll need.
The Blackpine, Andorra
For city perks
School ski trips and duty-free bargains have traditionally been Andorra’s dubious claims to tourism fame. But this mountainous principality, spanning the Pyrenees between Spain and France, has summer charms, too. Capital Andorra La Vella is the setting for a new eco hotel, the Blackpine. Showing how chic sustainable design can be, this boutique retreat has a restaurant and spa in the works to accompany its 17 rooms and suites. Intersperse time hiking or cycling on the trails with retail fixes on Avinguda Meritxell; history-steeped wanders around the Barri Antic, and muscle-soothing spells at Caldea thermal spa.
Hotel Bohinj, Slovenia
For lakeside wellness
The fairy-tale lake from which Hotel Bohinj takes its name is the stuff of children’s books, edged by majestic Julian Alps and neighbouring Mount Triglav National Park. It’s a visual tonic in its own right, but there are plenty more curatives to be found at Hotel Bohinj. Its blockish exterior belies the friendly, locally-led experience you’ll find within. Food is regionally inspired, interiors come with natural finishes and cabin-chic motifs, and the larch-lined spa is arranged with a level of detail – a reflexology walkway to the tea station, for instance – that speaks to the reverence that wellness is given here.
Grand Hotel Belvedere, Switzerland
For secluded peace
The Beaumier hotel group is no first-timer when it comes to opening hotels – which is just as well when you consider the idyllic valley’s-end setting of their latest Swiss venture. Grand Hotel Belvedere, in the Lauterbrunnen, is reachable by cog railway and located just above the world-class ski resort of Wengen’s pedestrianised centre. Its listed Belle Epoque building has been painstakingly conserved to create a wellness-first stay, where restorative frills extend to seasonal Alpine cuisine, and a Brutalist spa that’s anything but brutal. Also serving your wellbeing is an expert concierge team that can arrange anything from guided via ferrata to sails on Lake Thun.
Canfranc Estación, Spain
For unique lodgings
All aboard for a summer mountain escape with rail charm: now arriving at Platform One(-of-a-kind) is Canfranc Estación, A Royal Hideaway Hotel. This rail-themed address is glamorously appointed with mid-century-chic furnishings, a pool-toting spa and carriage-set dining room. But beyond its tricked-out-timepiece interiors, it’s the hotel’s Pyrenean setting, in the Aragón Valley, south of the French border, that impresses. The valleys of Hecho, Garcipollera and Ansó are catnip for keen walkers, but even the gentlest of woodland strolls will immerse you in this rural spot’s natural wonders. For a first-class stay in a lesser-known mountainous spot, Canfranc Estación Hotel is just the ticket.
Coeur de Megève, France
For any season
The French Alpine village of Megève enjoys a steady flow of visitors most months, thanks in part to its near-Geneva co-ords, but also because of the strength of its off-the-slopes trappings. This pine-clad village has upscale bars and eateries tucked into its storied streets, designer stores and chalet-chic good looks. The trails and pistes of the surrounding Alps, including the Mont Joly range, Rochebrune ridge and Mont d’Arbois, are of course the resort’s lifeblood. With a central stay such as Coeur de Megève, however, there’s little need to stray far. This upscale hotel of mod-Alpine interiors only closes its doors for May and November, and comes with a polished spa and locals-serving cocktail bar and restaurant.
For when the mercury drops, discover Smith’s full collection of luxury ski hotels and lodges